With the onset of spring comes the onset of bouncing baby puppies. How you interact with your new puppy is critical to her development; in fact, the lessons she learns now can set her up for life.

You will need to decide where to take your puppy for puppy classes. Notice I said where, not if. Whether there are classes in your area or you have to drive some distance to find one, they’re well worth the effort. Many owners on their second or third puppy think that whatever they learned in the past will be good for the new addition. This might be true, but it’s important to consider how long it’s been since you went to a dog-training class. It’s also important to recognize that your life will have changed since your last dog was a puppy. You may have children now, or be an empty nester. Even if you have the same breed as before, this is a different pup with different needs.

All the benefits of kindergarten
By taking your puppy to a fun, motivational class, you will learn things you may have forgotten over the years. You may, in fact, learn a whole new way of training.

Puppies do well with the social aspect of classes. If they’re allowed to meet and greet others of a similar age, they learn how other breeds look and behave. Upon meeting a Great Dane pup or a Boxer, some pups become alarmed. They usually just need some exposure to other breeds to become accepting of new dog faces later on in life.

Even if you think your puppy already knows the basics, getting into a puppy class under the watchful eyes of experienced dog trainers will be beneficial. During the classes you’ll learn the appropriate amount of interaction between pups and discover who may be bullying whom. It’s always hard to be the parent of the bully, but isn’t it better to discover this early and take steps to teach appropriate manners? Teaching your puppy on your own, in your kitchen, can’t do this.

Which brings us to training with distraction. There will be many times when you wish there were no distractions, but learning to pay attention while other puppies are around is a great lesson for your pup.

The scenario goes like this: you take your puppy to class to learn training techniques and have some puppy social time. You go home and practise what you learned in a non-distracting environment, then go back to class a week later to use the distraction to proof the lesson. Perfect!

While teaching the basic training words, most puppy classes will also teach “settle,” “leave it” and puppy handling. The recall (coming when called) can be worked on as a group so the puppies learn to go to the person who called, not to a random person in the vicinity.

Some schools offer other types of classes, such as Puppy Gymboree or Puppy Social. Many owners attend classes twice a week simply to keep their puppies learning and working in the class environment. This may seem excessive, but in fact can be a lot of fun for you and your new pet.

Yes, go to classes. You will learn how to teach your puppy some basic words; that manners involve more than a sit-stay; and that the bond you have with your pup can grow by leaps and bounds. You will also learn that having fun is what it’s all about.

Just as you won’t see a 15-year-old hu­man marathoner, you shouldn’t see a six-month-old puppy pulling a sled. These athletic endeavours re­quire not only training, but maturation, and pups have exercise limitations that must be respected. By avoiding the pitfalls of overtraining, you can create a canine athlete that performs well and stays healthy throughout its life.

A pup destined for agility, hunting, coursing, racing, sledding, search and rescue, police duty or other work must have the right genetic qualifica­tions for its job. You can’t expect a Pug to run for speed, or a Basset Hound to bound over a wall. Besides physical ca­pability, dogs must also have an in­nate motivation to perform their duties. A guard dog needs a disposition that’s quite different from a dog that excels in search and rescue.

Even if a dog has the right disposition for the job set out for him, he won’t be able to fulfill his role unless he is healthy. A dog with a joint condition such as hip or elbow dysplasia will find it too painful to excel in a duty requiring heavy activity. As well, excessive exercise will aggravate dysplastic joints, so they develop arthritis faster. Dogs destined for strenuous activity are usually screened for orthopaedic problems before time and funds are dedicated to their training. Hip ra­dio­graphs are manda­tory in many working dogs.

Health concerns are not confined to bone diseases. Some breeds are susceptible to inherited eye problems such as progressive retinal atrophy (PRA). Testing for this disease and others is breed and duty specific.

Once a pup is declared healthy, a planned schedule of exercises can be implemented, suited to the dog’s ability and the desired result.

How the body responds
The biggest mistake most trainers make is stepping up the duration of a young pup’s activity too quickly. To avoid this problem, it is important to understand how the body responds to exertion.

Consider a puppy in the first stages of a training pro­gram. Even on short runs, the pup tires quickly. Not only does the puppy have poor endurance, he’s clumsy. It takes a while to develop the fine motor control needed for a flowing gait.

The body’s first physical response to exercise is to in­­crease muscle mass. When the heart is pushed hard, its muscle builds so it can pump more blood with less effort. The same occurs in skeletal muscles, which en­large as exercise stresses them. Muscular response can be rapid. Many owners see changes in endurance and muscle mass within a few weeks of initiating training.

Muscle is not the only factor to consider. The ligaments that connect bone to bone and the tendons that connect muscle to bone don’t respond to exercise as fast as muscle does. This means that the muscles can overdevelop in relation to the structures that hold them together. Due to their pure power, muscles can strain (stretch) ligaments and tendons beyond their capacity.

Trainers frequently report that just as things seem to be going well, injuries occur. To avoid this outcome, increase distance slowly and stick to a schedule. Resist the temptation to let your dog run long distances just because he can.

Exercise techniques
Walking is the best way to initiate any training program. It requires no equipment and can be done any time. It can also be done at varying paces that match your long-term training goals. No matter what level your dog is exercising at, he needs a brisk walk. Allow him to sniff at the start, then get to work. If you find your puppy tires, reduce the distance by a third the next time you go.

Variety helps maintain interest and boosts skill development. For example, an agility dog may work a few obstacles in one week, but different obstacles the next week. A search and rescue dog may work on tracking one week and endurance the next.

Jumps can be used to strengthen your pup’s back and develop coordination. These can be made from coffee cans and broomsticks. For little breeds, punch holes in milk cartons and run a dowel between them. Make sure you put jumps on secure footing, and don’t leash your dog while he’s jumping as a leash can throw him off balance. Start with just a few jumps and slowly increase the number. If he re­fuses, he’s probably tired, so stop.

You don’t want your dog to be over-challenged with a jump, so keep the height low – no higher than his wrist for the first few weeks. As the pup grows and his ability to jump improves, slowly raise the bar to elbow height. Don’t go higher than the elbows until he’s mastered the jumps and has a mature skeleton.

Bones are considered mature when their growth plates close. In small dogs, this might occur at six months of age. In Great Danes, it could be as late as 14 months. Too much stress on bones while the growth plates are open can cause damage and irregular growth.

Endurance training is only for dogs with mature skeletons. If you take a six-month-old puppy on a 10-mile run, you are setting him up for injury and long-term orthopaedic issues. Just as it takes years of training for a human (an adult at that) to run long distances, it takes time to get a dog conditioned for endurance work. It’s critical that the bone support system (tendons/ligaments) be well prepared to accept the stress.

Your job, like that of any coach, is to develop your puppy’s ability without causing injury. Always start new activities at an easy level, and advance slowly so his body can develop. If you do it right, he will be able to enjoy an active life well into his senior years.

By Jeff Grognet, D.V.M.
A multi-published writer, Jeff Grognet, D.V.M., B.S.c.(Agr.), runs a veterinary practice in Qualicum Beach, B.C., along with his wife, Louise Janes, D.V.M.

Here, Fido! Look what Mommy’s got for you…a toothbrush! Exit Fido.

Can it be said that anybody actually enjoys brushing their teeth? Just as we can coerce young children into brushing twice a day, there are ways to get your dog used to having his teeth brushed.

Dr. Sandy Hale, a veterinary dentist in Guelph, Ont., emphasizes the need for regular dental care, noting that good oral health results in better overall health. Dr. Hale insists that a dog’s teeth should be brushed daily – twice daily for those with poor periodontal health. And it’s not just the teeth that need brushing: “Done properly, brushing the gums is highly beneficial,” he says. “It removes plaque and massages the gum tissue, helping to flush fluid and debris from below the gum line. It stimulates fibroblasts [collagen-producing cells] within the gingiva [gum tissue] to produce collagen, the main structural protein of the gingiva, helping to make them tough and resilient. But brushing too hard can traumatize the gingiva.”

How do you get your dog to cooperate or even enjoy having his teeth brushed? Here are five tips:

A puppy will be more inclined to accept daily tooth care. The best age to start is eight weeks, taking a hiatus when your puppy’s baby teeth begin to fall out, so as not to irritate already sensitive gums. Resume when adult teeth are in, and normal. If your dog is an adult, it’s never too late to introduce a new routine, approaching gently and using consistency and repetition. You can teach an old dog new dental tricks.

There is no need to spend a lot of money on specialty canine toothbrushes. Use a child-sized, ultra-soft-bristled brush available at any drug store. The smaller brush head and soft bristles ensure less discomfort and therefore less resistance. And what about flavoured canine toothpaste? Dr. Hale says, “I have yet to see any convincing studies to show that adding toothpaste adds any significant benefit over brushing with plain water. One study in human patients found that the brush accounted for 98 per cent of the effect.” Your dog might like a flavour, though, and the more he likes this process, the easier it will be for both of you.

There is always someone in the dog’s family with whom he has a particularly close bond. This person is likely to be the one the dog will trust to initiate a tooth-brushing regimen. That person should begin as he would with any new training session: gradually and with patience, using positive verbal reinforcement.

Brush at the same time every day, with the same person doing the brushing, and use repeated language to signal it’s time for the daily tooth-care session. Pick a suitable time. If you’re in a rush in the morning and your dog is full of energy, brush his teeth in the evening. Perform the brushing in the same place every time; the kitchen or bathroom are good locations, but provide a non-slip mat.

Save a favourite treat to be given only when the brushing is complete, and not at any other time. Dr. Hale says, “Rewards are key to success with any training program. However, the reward has to follow the desired behaviour within just a few seconds for the dog to draw a connection between cause and effect.” If the reward is good enough, it just may inspire your dog to ask to have her teeth brushed every day!

Begin dental brushing only in a healthy mouth. There is no point brushing teeth in need of professional attention. Get a check-up and perhaps a cleaning done first and use brushing for regular, healthy maintenance.

Brush. Don’t rush. Reward. And smile!

Pamela Delaney is a widely published, award-winning writer. She recently finished her satirical memoir Lives Have Nine Cats and Other Tales of Pet Motherhood. Pamela lives in Cobourg, Ont.

My dog doesn’t like having his nails clipped. What can I do?

Many dogs don’t like having their nails clipped, or their paws touched. For this reason, I always recommend touching a puppy’s paws and nails frequently so he gets used to it.

There are many things you can do to improve the situation. First, let’s discuss technique. If your dog won’t hold still, you are more likely to injure him, so having an assistant will help. A small dog can be cradled in your helper’s arms. Place a medium or large dog on a grooming table if possible. Dogs don’t move as much when they’re not on the floor.

Stand beside your dog and grasp the paw nearest you. Gently take his paw and try to relax – if you’re nervous, your dog will be, too. Push away any hair that is covering the nail so you can see the entire nail. Try to keep your dog’s paw in a natural position and not too high off the table – he’ll pull away if he’s uncomfortable. Grasp each toe individually. The nail that is about to be cut should be held between your thumb and forefinger. Attempt to clip the nail only if your dog is not moving.

You or your assistant can try distracting the dog while you clip. Have your assistant offer very small tasty treats, one at a time, so he stays focused on the treat. If you’re working alone, use a toy that can be filled with treats and let him start working on it before you begin clipping.

rewarding as you go – every time you successfully clip a nail, give your dog a special treat. Hopefully he will begin to associate nail clipping with a reward. You can also try clipping only one or two nails in a session. Follow each session with a tasty treat.

The next thing to look at is your equipment. The nail clipper should be the right size for your dog and the blade should be sharp. Using a dull clipper (or a clipper with a worn spring) may result in the nail not being clipped properly and the nail may split.

There are basically two types of clippers on the market: a guillotine style (where the blade comes forward and slices the nail), or the pliers-type (where both blades come together and cut the nail). Try both types of clippers to see which style you and your dog prefer. Your dog may tolerate a nail grinder instead of a clipper. The grinder gradually grinds down the tip of the nail.

Some dogs will put their mouth on your hand or the clipper when you try to clip their nails. Some dogs may growl or bite. You may need to put a muzzle on your dog for your own safety.

If your dog has had a bad nail-clipping experience, he may not allow you to clip them. In this case, take him to your local groomer or vet.

Want to know how to literally get your dog eating out of the palm of your hand? The secret is scrumptious homemade dog biscuits made with careful preparation and love. If you’re thinking this is way too much trouble to bother making, think again. With these easy to follow dog food recipes, you will be a doggie connoisseur before you can say, “Good boy!”

I don’t know if you know this but pooches just love the taste of peanut butter. I have often been bewildered with the many intricacies of the baking world but this recipe is fool proof, even for me. Combine 1 cup of whole wheat flour, 1 cup of all purpose flour, 1 cup milk, 2 tablespoons of honey and 2 tablespoons of oil with 1 cup of smooth and creamy peanut butter. Blend the mixture well and scoop into bite sized treats onto cookie sheets. Bake them for 20 minutes in 350 F and you have yourself the keys to Fido’s heart.

Anyone up for delectable oatmeal chews? Take 1 cup of whole wheat flour, 1 tsp baking soda, 3 cups oatmeal, 2 tablespoons honey and mix it all together. Fold in 2 egg yolks and 1 cup of cold water to bind it all together. Ensure the smooth consistency of the batter. Bake this for 15 minutes in a 350 F temperature. Once these chews are sufficiently cooled; cut into bite size pieces for your dog’s snacking pleasure.

For older dogs with a less than sturdy set of teeth, you can serve them these soft cookies as snacks. In a bowl, mix 1 cup dry milk powder, 1 cup wheat germ and 2 1 oz jars of flavored baby food thoroughly. Roll into coin sized mounds and bake in a pre heated oven for 15 minutes at 350 F. After cooling, you can serve as snack or refrigerate for future use.

Some cringe when we have live ron our dinner plate but this is actually a great treat for canines. It’s economical and really easy to make. All you need to do is to simply combine 1 lb liver (chopped and pureed) with 2 cups cornmeal, 1 cup of flour and 1/3 teaspoon of salt. Roll out onto a greased cookie sheet and bake for 20 minutes in 350 F. When done and sufficiently cooled, cut in small squares for quick snacking.

If you know how to bake, you can switch up some ingredients to make it interesting for your pet. Use apple, carrots, parsley or other pieces of meat. Make sure when you come up with your own dog food recipes that you research on the food that are harmful to canines. Some of these include chocolate, onion, grapes and most nuts. Too much liver is also harmful to them.

Now that you have read and are armed with these delicious doggie treats, commence the baking! Never was there a man’s best friend luckier than your Fido today.

Dehydration is caused when dogs loss to much body fluids. Not only water but also vital minerals can be lost in serious amounts when dehydration occurs. Dehydration is a very serious health risk when it occurs in any animal, dogs included. Since dogs are unable to sweat they release excess heat by panting. Extensive panting, especially hard panting, can lead to dehydration.

The best way to handle dehydration is to avoid it altogether by making sure that plenty of water and adequate shelter are always available. These basic steps help ward off heat stroke, a problem closely related to dog dehydration. Of course, other causes such as severe diarrhea, vomiting, and fevers can also cause dehydration

Heavy panting is generally the first sign that a dog might be becoming dehydrated. Checking the condition of the dog’s skin and gums can also give an indication if dehydration is a serious risk. By gently pinching up a fold of skin on either the dog’s neck or head you can gauge how dehydrated the pet is. A healthy dog’s skin will quickly regain it’s former shape, while dehydrated skin doesn’t have the proper amount of fluid and will more slowly reform. A dehydrated dog’s gums tend to be sticky and dry, while a properly hydrated dog will have slick gums.

If you think your dog is dehydrated, you need to quickly determine exactly how bad the situation is. More serious dehydration shouldn’t be handled by an amateur, so if the situation appears serious seek out a veterinarian immediately. IV fluids are a very important part of treatment in severely dehydrated dogs. In serious cases the situation can be even worse than normal dehydration because drinking enough to correct the issue can be problematic – dogs drinking too much water will frequently vomit, making the situation even worse.

It is important to re-hydrate the dog slowly. Rather than using plain water, give the dog an electrolyte supplement. Pedialyte is a good choice for treatment, avoid sport drinks that have sugar as they can cause diarrhea. Dispense smaller amounts of fluid frequently rather than a single big amount of liquid. In the worst situations, the dog might not be able to drink on its own, so try using a syringe or dropper to place fluids in its mouth.

When you decide to keep a dog, you must remember that it isn’t enough to just do the minimum. You have to do more than just feed, provide shelter, and other essentials. It is also important to provide dog puppy training. You don’t have to pay someone to train your dog as you can actually do this yourself at home with just a few techniques. Let see how this works.

Showing physical aggression toward your puppy will not advance your training but as a matter of fact, it will hinder it from progressing. It is recommended for you to show appreciation and respect for your dog and your dog will do the same for you. Showing anything besides respect will lead your dog to fear you and that is not good. Consistent and firm guidelines are a must if you want to get anywhere with training your pet.

Another dog puppy training suggestion is to make sure you give your dog some kind of reward whenever he performs correctly. This can be done by giving him treats and praise in an encouraging tone from your voice. This will give the dog something to look forward to whenever he does something right.

It is very important to treat your dog like a dog and not like a small toy. I have seen many pet owners dress, cuddle and baby their dogs, which is very unhealthy. Many people do this because dogs have a tendency to be cute and cuddly. Our pets are not there for us to smother them with hugs, but they have basic needs that must be met. They all have distinct personalities as well.

The right dog puppy training is key to having a perfect and happy relationship amongst man and dog working together under the same roof.

I have owned dogs all my life, and one thing that I have recently learned that crate training puppies can be really helpful, and save a lot of stress when you are housebreaking your puppy.

When you decide you are going to crate train your puppy you need to make sure that you buy the correct size crate – he needs to be able to stand up in it (at adult size) and move around. The metal crates are the best.

One thing that you need to make sure of is that you buy the right size crate for your puppy. He must have enough room to stand up and to move around. The metal crates with a door at one side are the best ones to go for – they are nice and strong.

If you go about crate training puppies in the correct way, they will think of their crate as their own special space and be only too happy to be in it. My dog often goes and lies in her crate for a bit of peace and quiet when the family visit!

Don’t ever leave your dog in the crate for long periods of time, especially when they are puppies – they will not have very much bladder control. Your puppy will not want to make a mess in his crate, so crate training is a really good aid to potty training. But you must not leave him in there so long that he is not able to hold on and makes a mess. He will be very upset and you will set back his crate training.

Now you have started to close the door, you need to increase the time it is closed. The next step is to actually leave the room when he is in the crate, but again only do this for a minute or so the first time. You will be able to build up this time slowly over a few days.

Do this for several days and then you can begin to go out of the room for a few minutes. It will not take him long to get used to being in his crate. You can increase the length of time you are away from him, but make sure when you go back to him, and open the door you should not make any fuss of him, just a small pat. Don’t ever let him out when he is crying, or he will think that this is what he has to do to be let out of his crate.

Over a period of three days or so you will be able to leave for an hour quite happily. As your dog gets a bit older you could leave him for slightly longer than this.

Your puppy will love his crate and feel totally safe and secure in it. An added advantage of having a crate trained puppy is that is you do need to go out you can be sure that he will be relaxed and happy in his crate, so long as he has a blanket or bed and a few toys to amuse him. Often when a puppy is left alone he will become anxious and this is when he is likely to start chewing, barking and making a nuisance of himself. So if you don’t want to come home to a destroyed house (it’s surprising how much damage a small puppy can do when he is stressed), then all of your crate training will be a real asset, as he just will not feel anxious or stressed because he knows you will be coming back to him, as you always do.

Opening the door to your home for your brand new puppy is a sensation that just can’t be explained. Watching their curiosity as they examine and investigate their new surroundings is precious. Despite the fact that this is a very thrilling occasion, some foundations should begin without delay. Puppy obedience training is the first step in an ongoing process that starts right when you bring your puppy home.

Don’t lose sleep if this is your first puppy here is some help. The key here is to use positive feedback and reinforcement when your puppy exhibits desirable behaviors. Appropriate corrective methods can be used when your puppy exhibits behavior you consider undesirable. We need to pay attention and not disregard the puppy’s behavior whether it’s desirable or undesirable. Repetition is the key here to establish proper learning. Consistency is essential both with the commands you use and making sure we practice puppy obedience training daily.

We always want to use positive verbal praise and even a treat at times when our puppy performs something properly or acts desirable. Don’t forget that repetition will be the key to learning. Your puppy is extremely intelligent but it will take some practice for him/her to really get it down.

Though it may be tempting to rub your puppy’s snout in the accident or whack him with a rolled up newspaper, punishing your dog in this way is not  effective puppy obedience training. Your puppy will just become afraid of you. This does not help form a wonderful relationship. Do you believe she will come when you call, if she thinks she is going to get a whack?

Chewing is a natural part of being a puppy however they do not yet know what is acceptable to chew. Make sure you let them know by using a firm “No” or “Bad”. Consistency is important so pick your word and stick to it. When you find him chewing on something that is undesirable make sure he knows. But then give him something else to chew on and praise him for chewing the acceptable toy

Biting is something all puppy’s do and their sharp teeth hurt. It’s not that they are trying to be hurtful, they are babies and teething is natural. You do need to set limits, you should not permit your puppy to gnaw hands or feet. Patience will be essential here. If she bites you make sure that she knows she hurt you by yelping. Use a firm voice and instantly stop playing. She will learn that biting ends playtime.

It is extremely critical to start and set a schedule for both you and your puppy. Get your puppy used to waking up and going outside to use the bathroom at the same time each morning. Feeding your puppy at the same time each day is also critical. How often you feed your puppy and how much will differ depending on the breed. Always schedule some play time in for your new pup. Scheduling everything and being consistent will help speed the training process.

Even though your new puppy is a great deal of fun she/he does not come without work. But with some patience, consistency and repetition your puppy can be trained and respectful in no time at all. Puppy obedience training will help your pup grow into a well mannered dog and give you tons of joy and companionship for many years to come!

There is nothing more exciting than bringing a new puppy home. There is just something about puppies that makes them adorable to everyone. Nobody can resist their charm. That is, nobody can resist their charm until they have a little accident on your living room carpet. Then you have to think about training a puppy!

Many people find toilet training a puppy to be a frustrating and maddening experience, but it needn’t be. If you educate yourself about dogs and their behavior, you can learn how to train your dog without causing either the puppy or yourself too much anxiety.

All dogs have certain instincts that they are born with. One of these instincts is to not soil their sleeping den. In their natural environment they will know to immediately head outdoors if they feel an urge to urinate or defecate. But they may not have that option in the confines of your house. Your puppy will show signs of anxiety before it “does its duty” in your home.

Your puppy will be instinctively hesitant to relieve itself inside the house, but will not be able to control itself. It will sniff around the house, trying to find the place where others relieve themselves before it finally gives up and does it on the floor. It is important not to punish it for this, because it hasn’t done anything wrong. It is just as important to teach it that the place it chose is not the right place and to show it where the right place is.

Do not loudly scold your puppy, hit it or rub its face in its mess. Immediately clean up the area and take the waste matter outside and put it where it belongs. Take the puppy with you and let it see and smell where its waste belongs. Then go back and clean up thoroughly. Take special care to use a cleaning solution that completely eliminates the odor, remembering that your dog has a keener sense of smell than you do.

You will have to keep your eyes open for a few days or weeks if you want to successfully toilet train your puppy. Look for those behavioral signs that tell you it needs to go. Take it outside and wait for it to finish and then offer it a reward for good behavior. You will not only have shown your puppy the appropriate place to go, but have established yourself as the leader of the “pack.”

Teaching the puppy who is boss is as important as toilet training itself. Dogs are pack animals, which means that they either follow the pack or lead the pack. Your puppy must know from the beginning that it is living in your home and that you are the leader of the pack. You need not be a harsh leader. In fact, benevolent leadership is a far better way to lead.

Training a puppy from an early age is best for everyone. You will have a happy, well-adjusted pet and your life together will be satisfying for both of you.