It is a fact, dogs bark for communication purposes. Some breeds bark more than others but all dogs bark sometimes. It is when a dog barks excessively and without good reason that everyone gets frustrated. We all want communication from our dogs but nobody wants a dog that barks and barks for no apparent reason.

There are quite a few reasons why a dog will bark. If your dog is bored because he is in the house or the same yard all the time he may start barking to entertain himself. Dogs love social stimulation and interacting with others. Try to have more playtimes or take more walks. This may help your dog if he is barking excessively out of boredom.

Dogs can also start barking excessively when they become nervous or scared. When a dog is appropriately socialized they will be calm and more relaxed around various people and in various situations but if a dog is not used to these new things he may bark from anxiety. Train your dog to be calmer by taking him to different places and around different people. Give him a food reward while he is quiet and well behaved. This usually works well as the dog will start associating the pleasing treat with the new situation rather than nervousness.

Dogs will try to get your attention when they need something by barking. You want your dog to communicate with you but you do not want this type of barking to become out of control. If you respond to his barking by giving him what he wants he will continue to bark every time. Attempt to reinforce other communication behaviors by using praise and treats.

Sometimes dogs bark from separation anxiety. They just don’t want you to leave them and they bark until you come home. This is disruptive to the neighbors and others so it is definitely something you need to avoid. It may be easier to do this if you begin when your dog is still a pup and put him in the crate before you leave. That way he is happily in his own space and he will not miss you quite so much. Also never make a big deal out of leaving but just quietly slip away. He will probably notice that you are away but he won’t be so vocal about it.

Dogs bark to protect you and there are situations when we all would appreciate that. However, every single day when the mailman or mail person! comes to deliver the mail is not one of those times! This is atime when socialization and training can really pay dividends. Go with your dog to meet the mailman, let them become acquainted and hopefully your dog will not bark at him everyday. Another way to get him to stop barking at inopportune times is to distract him with a game or a treat. But in the case of your dog barking to protect you remind yourself that there may come a time when you will appreciate that so limit your training to people you know.

A professional dog trainer can offer you some tips and techniques to stop excessive barking but sometimes just more socialization and more playtimes will help stop the excessive barking. The one thing you should consider though is that your dog is usually barking for a reason and you should find out what that reason is. Then you can deal with the barking.

You will enjoy your dog more and other people will also enjoy your dog more if he doesn’t bark excessively. Try to stop the negative behavior of excessive barking while your dog is a young puppy and when he is older you will know that if he is barking he has a good reason.

Principal training tips for your pet dog plus learn what dog training videos I used to train my dog in a few minutes a day.

With the onset of spring comes the onset of bouncing baby puppies. How you interact with your new puppy is critical to her development; in fact, the lessons she learns now can set her up for life.

You will need to decide where to take your puppy for puppy classes. Notice I said where, not if. Whether there are classes in your area or you have to drive some distance to find one, they’re well worth the effort. Many owners on their second or third puppy think that whatever they learned in the past will be good for the new addition. This might be true, but it’s important to consider how long it’s been since you went to a dog-training class. It’s also important to recognize that your life will have changed since your last dog was a puppy. You may have children now, or be an empty nester. Even if you have the same breed as before, this is a different pup with different needs.

All the benefits of kindergarten
By taking your puppy to a fun, motivational class, you will learn things you may have forgotten over the years. You may, in fact, learn a whole new way of training.

Puppies do well with the social aspect of classes. If they’re allowed to meet and greet others of a similar age, they learn how other breeds look and behave. Upon meeting a Great Dane pup or a Boxer, some pups become alarmed. They usually just need some exposure to other breeds to become accepting of new dog faces later on in life.

Even if you think your puppy already knows the basics, getting into a puppy class under the watchful eyes of experienced dog trainers will be beneficial. During the classes you’ll learn the appropriate amount of interaction between pups and discover who may be bullying whom. It’s always hard to be the parent of the bully, but isn’t it better to discover this early and take steps to teach appropriate manners? Teaching your puppy on your own, in your kitchen, can’t do this.

Which brings us to training with distraction. There will be many times when you wish there were no distractions, but learning to pay attention while other puppies are around is a great lesson for your pup.

The scenario goes like this: you take your puppy to class to learn training techniques and have some puppy social time. You go home and practise what you learned in a non-distracting environment, then go back to class a week later to use the distraction to proof the lesson. Perfect!

While teaching the basic training words, most puppy classes will also teach “settle,” “leave it” and puppy handling. The recall (coming when called) can be worked on as a group so the puppies learn to go to the person who called, not to a random person in the vicinity.

Some schools offer other types of classes, such as Puppy Gymboree or Puppy Social. Many owners attend classes twice a week simply to keep their puppies learning and working in the class environment. This may seem excessive, but in fact can be a lot of fun for you and your new pet.

Yes, go to classes. You will learn how to teach your puppy some basic words; that manners involve more than a sit-stay; and that the bond you have with your pup can grow by leaps and bounds. You will also learn that having fun is what it’s all about.

The debate about using treats for training is turning from “should we” to “how do we.” The who, what, when and why of treat training is the new norm, and while we will touch on them briefly, the where of treat training deserves special consideration.

Most educated dog trainers of this decade are using treats and rewards to indicate correct behaviour. Behaviourists also use food to help change dogs’ minds, rather than using force to push them into submission. When we know better, we do better.

A treat needs to be something that your dog will work for. It can be his daily kibble or a special tidbit. A wide assortment of food and treats is now available for dogs on a special diet or with allergy restrictions.

Treats can be used to teach a skill, then weaned off once the dog is proficient. There are many articles about random reinforcement and proper timing. It’s nice to know that the when of treat training is becoming common knowledge to dog trainers and the informed public.

We use food to train our dogs and modify their behaviour because it is clear and concise information. Dogs will work for the food initially and continue to comply if the treats are weaned off properly. And, it’s a lot of fun for dog lovers to use treats, praise and toys to motivate and teach their canine buddies.

That brings us to the last W.

Where will the dog receive his reward and where will the treat come from? When teaching a dog to lie down, we often use a reward to lure the dog into position. As the pup is lying down, we reward him as soon as we can’t see light under his belly. Most people will do this correctly, but it’s easy to see where it falls apart.

Once the dog understands “down,” we graduate to the down-stay. You ask our dog to lie down, leave him to stay and all is well. But, it’s not uncommon for the dog to get up as the owner returns. Many people, delighted that their dog was at least partially in position and not romping around the room, treat the dog. Now the dog thinks he’s being rewarded for sitting up when his owner comes back.

Clarity is one of the most important concepts in teaching. When you return to your dog, bend and reward him while he’s in the down position before he pops up into a sit.

This principle can be applied to all basic dog-training words, but the dog’s position is only the tip of the ice-berg. The position of the treat also needs consideration.

Holding a treat in your left hand when teaching your dog to walk beside you on a leash will improve his ability to understand what you’re asking him to do. Although it might feel awkward having your hands full with your leash, clicker and treats, it’s just a matter of practice. By using a treat in your left hand, you can indicate that your dog is correct by using a clicker or “Yes” and treating him every few steps. You can then start to ask for more steps from your dog, while still having his focus. Once that is mastered, you can periodically use food in the left hand, then none at all.

If your dog has become used to treats arriving from your left, he is more inclined to stay on the left. Of course, there are reasons to reward from your right hand. In competitive obedience, the judge is looking for a dog that heels on the left side, shoulder in line with the handler’s left leg. For dogs that tend to lag, using treats in the right hand to motivate the dog to keep pace is a good training option.

The position of the treats can also be used to the handler’s advantage when teaching a skill like jumping. Once you have taught your dog how to jump, it’s important to help him understand where he should land. You can use the position of the treat or reward to keep your dog centred. Place a reward slightly further away from the jump than the estimated landing zone. Practise sending your dog over the jump to get his reward in the correct place, and he will continue to jump straight out.

Your positioning with the reward can be utilized in many areas. If you are running with your dog rather than sending him to jump, you’ll want to have him run centred. During training, you’ll need to meet him with the reward in his landing zone. If you reward him outside the landing zone, he’ll soon cut the corner off the jump to meet up with you faster.

When you’re teaching your dog to go over a jump and return to you, you would not meet him in his landing zone. Send him over the jump, and encourage him to come around it and back to you. His treat will come when he is in position.
We can benefit from considering where the treat is from the dog’s perspective, and where the dog is when rewarded. Just some food for thought.

Most dog training professionals agree that the best way to train any dog is by a process called positive reinforcement training. This is a technical term for a very simple theory:

Rewarding the desired behavior you want your dog to repeat, while ignoring the undesired behavior, is positive reinforcement. This method has replaced the now outdated old world of dog training that at times could be very cruel. Inflicting physical pain and intimidation, such as choking an aggressive dog or using shock collars as corrective techniques.

Positive reinforcement works with your dog. Her natural instinct is to please you – the theory of positive reinforcement recognizes that lessons are more meaningful for dogs, and tend to “stick” more, when a dog is able to figure out what you’re asking under her own steam (as opposed to, say, learning “down” by being forced repeatedly into a prone position, while the word “down” is repeated at intervals).

When you use positive reinforcement training, you’re allowing her the time and the opportunity to use her own brain. Some ways for you to facilitate the training process:

- Rewards that mean something. A little rub on the head and a “good girl”, gets pretty boring for a dog. (some dogs don’t even like being rubbed on the head.)

- You can tell if a dog doesn’t like its head beaning touched, does he or she cower or bark when a hand comes down to them? It is better to use “primary intensives”, such as food or a more physical reward.

- In other words, they’re both significant rewards that most dogs respond powerfully and reliably to.

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This is such a common problem and sometimes quite entertaining, especially if you see a youngster being pulled along by a strong dog. Or even a grown up being pulled for that matter. But you love walking your dog and it’s really not a joke if he won’t listen to your commands. To stop your dog from pulling on the leash you need to know a few tricks.

Why they pull on their leashes is because they actually can walk faster than we can and they just can’t wait up. There basic instinct kicks in to chase when they see other animals or pick up strong scents. It’s natural and we have to just work around it.

Naturally it’s best to start with your training when he’s still a puppy, but if this is not possible you can teach an old dog new tricks. A word of advise, it’s better for the dog’s health if you don’t use a choke collar. They are known to cause damage to the throat and vocal cords.

Do your initial training indoors and in a room where there are no distractions. He does not need a harness at this stage of his training as you will first teach him to follow you. Step one – To get him to follow you, place an object small enough to fit on the palm of your hand. Get your dog’s attention by showing him the object and saying the trigger word “touch”. Let him come up to the object and he must touch it with his nose, but not be in front of you but behind you or next to you. Once he has done that, then walk away some and let him follow you. He must touch the object again with his nose when you say touch. Remember to give him a treat if he touches the object but stays behind you every time.

Do take into consideration that you are teaching your dog a completely new and strange behavior and it will take a while before he gets what you want from him. Persevere and you will be rewarded as well.

If you are happy that he can now follow you on command, then put a harness on him and let him follow you and touching the object again. He now needs to get used to the harness while following your command. Gradually take him outdoors into the garden and keep on practicing. Once he is used to the harness, clip on the leash and now he has to follow you, touch the object and stay behind or next to all the time. Give him a treat intermittently. He will soon realize what you want and will then happily walk with you in the garden. You are now ready to take him on a walk outside of your yard.

Always keep in mind that to stop your dog from pulling on the leash is something that must be taught with great patience and lots of love and understanding, this will be so rewarding when you walk on the street and your dog is well behaved.

Author Remco van Reenen is an expert on dogtraining and on his website positieve hondentraining you can find all sorts of tips. You can also get lots of accessories to make training your dog easy in the section puppytraining

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